Handwoven in Ladakh

Ladakh, high up in the Himalayas covered in snow for more months than it is not, a place of prayer flags, Buddhist monasteries and Pashmina nomads. Weaving and spinning were part of the average winter household activities, producing blankets & woollen garments, from sheep fleece much needed in the harsh climate, rugs from soft yak fibres, ropes and grain bags from the stronger yak hair. Lena (Pashmina) fibre was traded and woven by the Kashmiris who were able to remove the unwanted hair fibres, to create the super soft shawls converted by the wealthy. It wasn’t until recent years with the introduction of machinery to remove these unwanted hairs, could the fashion houses start to utilise the spinning and weaving skills of Pashmina in Ladakh. Pashmina has very much overshadowed the much less luxurious handspun & woven Nambu cloth, a speciality of Ladakh which deserves attention. Nambu is a densely woven woollen cloth produced on narrow portable looms about 16 metres long, enough for 1 goncha. Traditionally every house hold would spin yarn, and more or less every other house hold would weave. The narrow width of the woollen cloth 12-14 inches wide, made up into tradition dress “Goncha” in narrow panels. Dyed in a deep maroon. These extremely hardy dresses were worn for all daily activities inside and outside the house.

In 1985 I lived with a family, organised by the Ecology Centre in Leh in conjunction with the Womens Alliance. As a volunteer I was expected to work the land and help with household chores. The house was large, with several rooms but the kitchen was the heart of all activities, for a family consisting of 4 generations. Above is Ama-le, mother of the house who spoke no English, but was incredibly caring and had a knack of understanding when I needed a sweet cup of tea to keep me going.

Ama-le is spinning sheep wool using a tikle, sitting on a yak hair rug, on the mud floor of the kitchen, wearing her Goncha, “Tipi” hat and sheep skin rug shawl.

On one particular day Ama-le took me out to visit neighbours in the next valley, here she is dressed up, with a newer Goncha but with a sash belt and blouse showing. I remember the day clearly as she stood very proudly wanting me to take her photograph.

And of course, great delight was taken dressing me up in a Goncha and Tipi…and I was super happy to play along.

I was fortunate to find in a little shop in Leh back in 1989 selling second hand bits and pieces, this beautiful natural dyed tie-dyed Goncha. The V&A displayed a similar piece in “The Fabric of India exhibiton in 2015, the piece was dated early 20th Century.

Nambu weaving on a simple portable loom.

Handspun yak hair – suitable for ropes spun by men

Hand spinning Pashmina on a tikle, a sociable activity requiring much tea drinking and eating.

In the Changthang region, were life is still largely nomadic, weaving carpets with soft yak wool on portable back strap looms.

Soft tufted yak carpets, cotton warp.

Blankets woven with coarser yak hair.